California Love
Exploring some of the hidden (and not so hidden) gems of Sonoma County and beyond
I've been trying for a while to put into words how I feel about Sonoma County, its wines, and the surrounding regions without sounding overly effusive. There is something undeniably special about this region, with its combination of rich, if relatively recent, history, incredibly diverse terroir, and passionate winemakers. As opposed to the arguably more famous region of Napa Valley, which lies just on the other side of the Mayacamas Mountains, Sonoma County feels somewhat less… cult-like. While there is certainly a strong marketing presence behind many of its wines, the region as a whole seems more grounded, less singularly fixated on wine as a symbol of prestige. As a result, it feels far more welcoming, and, I believe, has attracted a more interesting and down-to-earth variety of winemakers.
On my recent visit, I had the opportunity to visit multiple wineries, from up in Healdsburg to Sebastopol and various tasting rooms in downtown Sonoma.
There were, however, three standout wineries — Ridge Vineyards, Littorai, and Winery Sixteen 600 — each offering its own unique take on what makes this region so remarkable. From bold, structured reds to delicate, terroir-driven whites, these wineries embody the essence of Sonoma's wine culture in ways that are as distinct as they are unforgettable. Ridge, as we shall see, is a bit of an outlier here, as their best wines arguably come from a different region altogether, but the tasting room I visited was in Lytton Springs, and some of the wines tasted were from the local old vine vineyards.
I should add as well that this post is a bit of a deviation from the regular deep dives, which I hope you will forgive. I think, however, it is worth the effort to shine some light on these amazing producers as a showcase of what Sonoma, and more broadly California, has to offer, while also serving as a reminder to a future version of myself of what I felt about these producers at this point in time. I will also refrain from specific tasting notes, as these are often of very limited use to anyone, but I will point out the wines I enjoyed the most at each stop.
Ridge Vineyards - Lytton Springs
Now, while I said above that my intention was to shine some light on producers worthy of mention, in the case of Ridge, this is a bit like pointing a flashlight at the sun. Ridge is one of the bright stars of Californian wine and has been ever since their famous involvement in the blind tasting event held in 1976, known as the Judgement of Paris, which every participating (Californian) winery will make sure we never forget. While I think harking on about this event is a bit trite, I must say that, having tasted a selection of Ridge’s finest offerings, I can excuse the French critics of this bygone era for confusing this Californian juice with that of their own.
These wines have a distinctly European quality, a finesse and restraint which are not often associated with California. That is not to dismiss them as some mere imitation, however, as they express their own unique terroir wonderfully, but there are common traits with regard to the level of refinement that make the comparison apt.
We set off bright and early, driving out of the dense morning fog engulfing the Golden Gate Bridge and into the much warmer climate of Sonoma County, to reach Lytton Springs just before the winery opened its doors. Early morning tastings are always a challenge, of course, as Cabernet rarely makes for an ideal breakfast, but when it’s called Monte Bello, I’m happy to make an exception.
We were greeted with a lovely and refreshing glass of a white old vine field blend (Ridge 2023 Historic Vines, Blanc) before beginning a guided tour of their winemaking facility. It was a tour that tickled every bone of my inner wine nerd and had the added bonus of being at a time when harvest and actual winemaking were in full swing. The air was filled with the sweet, bread-like aroma of healthy fermentations. There were aerated pump-overs and the cleanup of equipment in progress, zip-lock bags of grape samples brought in for analysis, and loads of other day-to-day activities going on.
The highlight was perhaps getting to taste components of one of the rosé wines straight from the tank, before blending them in the glass to get a hint of what the resulting wine would look like, along with a random encounter with the winemaker, who kindly stopped to clarify a question or two.
As you can imagine, I enjoyed myself tremendously. Once done with the tour of the facilities, we were taken to a private tasting room where a gorgeous selection of four wines was lined up. Now, this is the point where I address the slight oddity of going to Lytton Springs to taste wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains. There is no doubt that what Ridge is most famous for is their Monte Bello vineyards, and while the wines made at their Lytton Springs estate are also excellent, we could not pass up the opportunity to try their very best wines, even if somewhat removed from the actual vineyards. It also made sense with our itinerary.
The four wines presented to us can be seen in the photo below, and they are all stunning. What struck me more than anything, however, was just how, for lack of a better comparison, French they seem. The Chardonnay, though perhaps more oaked than what you would find in Burgundy, offered an aroma profile I’ve only encountered in certain Montrachets. It’s not quite there, but it’s damn close.
The highlight, of course, which raised eyebrows at every other winery that asked us what we had tasted that day, was the 2015 Monte Bello. It is a brilliant wine, a gem, which clearly stands to be compared to the finest classified growths of Bordeaux. I’d rather not compare this wine to its old-world cousins, but it offers flavours and texture in a style that I’ve only ever encountered in wines I quite frankly cannot afford, from places like Pauillac and Graves.
Is it a perfect wine, as suggested by the point score shown in the above picture? I don’t know. But I also cannot find a flaw in it, were it to save my life. Ratings are subjective, and when I asked our lovely host what they mean for a winery like Ridge, she quickly deflected, saying that it is not something they put too much stock in, and which for a winery of their reputation will not make much of a difference. It is clear, though, that it is the type of higher-end, collectible wine which will appeal to those chasing point scores for their cellar. Points aside, I too wish this bottle was in my cellar, preferably with 11 other of its siblings.
Needless to say, I enjoyed the visit tremendously and would highly recommend it, though do try to go during harvest. That tip applies to winery visits in general. So much is happening, and if you’re interested in the inner workings of a winery, it is a great opportunity to get a glimpse behind the curtain.
Cost of tasting: USD 85.00 pp
Date visited: 8 September, 2024
Littorai Wines - Sebastopol
A couple of days after the visit to Ridge Vineyards, we headed back north, this time towards Sebastopol, where we had an appointment at Littorai Wines. It was their approach to viticulture and their holistic management practices that made this an absolute must-visit for us. Focusing on what they call generative farming practices, as opposed to regenerative, they have created an environment that very few vineyard managers or wineries would deem economical.
Only a relatively minor portion of their overall land is under vine, though it could be, allowing for a sprawling diversity of life to thrive. As they state on their website:
Our farming techniques are the expression of many years’ research in the fertile cross-currents of permaculture, agro-ecology, and biodynamic farming.
Having farmed conventionally for more than twenty years early in our careers, we became convinced that western agronomic theory is not only unsustainable but also inadequate in its conception of plant health and nutrition. The alternative agricultural paradigms provide the springboard towards a new kind of farming.
Although “regenerative” farming is the buzzword of the moment, the only path forward to a healthy planet is the birth of a new form of agriculture, generative agriculture. This generative paradigm invites modern human beings into a new relationship with their environment. This relationship should be based upon the recognition that humans are part of nature and that any healthy, true form of environmentalism must embrace the role of the human being in participating in, shaping, and caring for the world around us.
Though this inevitably sounds a bit like a marketing write-up, being used as such on their website, the tour of the vineyard surrounding the winery clearly shows the dedication and intensity with which these vines are cared for. Walking through the partially harvested rows only served to solidify this impression, as the vines were immaculately pruned and trimmed, not just for aesthetic purposes, but with a deft touch focused on keeping the vines in utmost balance. Tasting some Pinot Noir fruit right off the vine was also an experience, and a lovely hint of just how good the juice coming off this land is, something that was highly apparent in the wines we tasted later. This is also a very good perk of touring a vineyard around harvest time.
Throughout the tour, there was a focus on life, walking through companion gardens buzzing with the friendly super-pollinators that are mason bees, and our host flipping over parts of a compost pile to show us the myriad of creatures thriving in it. They also have a range of farm animals and a very senior, but cuddly barn cat that guards the biodynamic preparations. As you can imagine, especially if you have read some of my other articles, this was an enormous green flag parade for me, making me increasingly excited for the wines to come.
Sitting down for a tasting, we were shown a range of six spectacular wines, two Chardonnays and four Pinot Noirs. Where Ridge could be said to remind one of the finest Bordeaux, Littorai takes you straight to the Côte de Beaune. Again, this is a bit of a misrepresentation, as the wines are unmistakably reflective of their local terroir, full of the cooling influence of the nearby Pacific coast. That said, Ted Lemon, the winemaker, was the head winemaker at the superb Burgundian Domaine Guy Roulot in the mid-80s (at the young age of 25, I might add), the first American to ever run a Burgundian estate.
The wines in question were from a series of different estates, all farmed by the Lemons in accordance with their generative ethos. What I found quite unusual with this tasting, however, was that instead of being a progression, going from the standard format of less prestigious towards their flagship wine, all wines were on par with each other. There were different expressions of terroir, with some wines being in slightly different stages of their development, but they were essentially qualitatively equal. You need not have been to many tastings to realise just how rare that is.
This is, of course, not mass-market wine, and it is rather pricey and hard to get. It is, however, absolutely worth it if you enjoy high-quality Pinot Noir and want to understand just how much potential this varietal has in a place like the Anderson Valley and the region surrounding Sebastopol.
Cost of tasting: USD 90.00 pp
Date visited: 10 September, 2024
Winery Sixteen 600 - Sonoma
Our next stop after Littorai was Winery Sixteen 600, at their ultra-charming tasting room in downtown Sonoma. I first heard about them through "The Winemakers" podcast, hosted by local (to Sonoma) experts Sam Coturri, Bart Hansen, Brian Casey, and John Myers, who, along with the legendary Phil Coturri, are the winemakers and growers behind Winery Sixteen 600. The relaxed, fun, and highly informative nature of the podcast translates perfectly to their tasting room, which, in contrast to so many other venues, felt as if we were invited into someone’s home. The house is decorated with the mildly psychedelic but incredibly expressive art of Stanley Mouse, the artist behind the album covers of the Grateful Dead, along with a host of other incredible artists such as Jimi Hendrix. Stanley, being a long-time friend of the Coturri family, when asked to opine on a draft label for the winery's first wine, offered to help out, and his art is now used on all Sixteen 600 labels. A better match could not be imagined and perfectly captures the underlying counterculture ethos that permeates the region and the winery's history.
While run by a bunch of hippies, however (something I might add is a huge plus in my book), they are, like a good mullet, super pragmatic when it comes to the business side of things. Their approach to managing vineyards is as pragmatic as it gets, focusing on keeping their operations truly sustainable.
Our host Brian, from the abovementioned podcast, was incredibly friendly and invited us to go through their extensive record collection and put on some music we liked while pouring and discussing the wines. Rather than sticking strictly to the printed lineup shown on the tasting menu, we were treated to their library tasting, with a range of wines Brian thought we should try. To say it was a great and easy-going experience is an understatement.
The wines were also incredible. Organically farmed and produced only in minute quantities, these wines are a riot, tasting like no other wines I have ever tried. With a focus on Rhône varietals such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, they capture the unique conditions of Sonoma's Moon Mountain district with a truly unique expression that I’ll definitely want to revisit.
Unfortunately, this is one of those labels that has no real need to export, as they manage to sell most of their production to local wine club members and through their tasting room. While well-deserved, it means their wines are basically unobtainable for us on this side of the pond. If you are ever in the area, though, visiting is an absolute must. Only an hour by car from San Francisco, the town of Sonoma also offers a range of other great tasting experiences and culinary options.
I'm counting the days until I can return.
Cost of tasting: USD 42.00 pp*
*Brian kindly only charged us for the two bottles we bought, saying he’d much rather sell us wine than charging for a tasting.
Date visited: 10 September, 2024
The above three wineries are, of course, just a tiny sample of what Sonoma has to offer thirsty visitors. While it is tempting to head straight for Napa Valley (not to be discouraged either, as it can be lovely), I would urge any visitors to stop by Sonoma, if not for a day, then at least on the way back (presumably) to San Francisco.
If you made it this far, I appreciate you tremendously. I’ll be back with more nerdy deep dives soon but felt I could not miss the opportunity to share my experiences.
sounds like a great trip, glad you enjoyed it!