Down The Rabbit Hole

Down The Rabbit Hole

Is Wine Made in the Vineyard?

How soil biology, vineyard management, and microbial succession intersect to influence wine quality

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George Nordahl
Mar 28, 2026
∙ Paid

A while ago I wrote an article an article which explored the role of native yeasts in shaping our perception of terroir. Specifically, it looked at how the yeast strains found on grapes, though consisting largely of the same species, can vary tremendously in their composition depending on where in the world they are found. This microbial biogeography influences how native fermentations progress, and ultimately impacts the flavour profile of the finished wine. While the alcohol tolerant Saccharomyces cerevisiae eventually comes to dominate the must, the effect of supporting yeast strains is notable and will have an effect even when the wine is inoculated with commercial strains.

Yeast however represent only a relatively small portion of the microbial community that exists both in and on the vine, as well as in the soils they grow in. In fact, with the exception of the highly useful yeasts, the role of microbes has largely been ignored, unless it is a matter of spoilage bacteria which pu…

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