Wine Conversations: Wine in Restaurants... And Beyond! (III)
What are the demands of modern wine drinkers, and how should service professionals meet them?
Ah, we’re back with another round of Wine Conversations! This month’s topic comes from by Maria Banson who asked what the demand of modern wine drinkers are and how service professionals should meet them.
Rather than me recapping her excellent article, and the equally insightful article by Stacey Smidge that followed, I highly suggest you check them out below before moving on. In short, however, Maria approached the topic in a highly insightful manner, drawing on her experience as a sommelier, giving a bit of a masterclass in how to deal with paying customers that British service professionals would do well to study. She highlights how, essentially, service should not get in the way of, but rather facilitate, having a good drink at a reasonable price—something I think we can all get behind. Stacey did what I will do in what follows, which is to approach the topic from the point of view of the consumer. She points out that what patrons of a wine bar or other establishment want from the wine professional serving them is a certain connection—an easy interaction that is not patronising, but rather one that encourages curiosity and serves to improve the experience for everyone involved.
First, a Slight Detour.
We, the consumers of wine, are quite far removed from the humble origins of the drink. Gone is the mystique surrounding alcoholic fermentation that drew people into the Dionysian cult of ancient Greece, where the intoxicating and disinhibiting effects of wine were seen as clear proof of possession by the god's spirit. While the Dionysian Mysteries, or rather the rites involved, were largely based on a death and rebirth theme, mirroring the seasonal cycle of the vine, it was the ability of wine and other intoxicants to liberate one, if ever so temporarily, from civilisation's rules and constraints that gave the cult such broad appeal. Participants could unshackle themselves from their socialised personality and ego, and enter into a deified state of ecstasy where they could be in touch with something more, for the lack of a better word, primal.
Though multiple layers of religious suppression throughout history have done a good job of culturally vilifying anything resembling these early rites, culminating in the puritanical mindset behind the prohibitionist movement of the early 20th century, I dare say that echoes of early Dionysian revelry can still be seen in restaurants and bars the world over. Wine’s role as a stimulant that loosens the drinker up, relaxes inhibitions and lubricates interesting conversations remains largely unchanged.
That is not to say that consumption patterns have not changed. Throughout history, the majority of wine drunk has been as part of the diet—a thirst-quencher with a twist, if you will, that provided a safe source of calories and flavour. Wine is food, and it is only relatively recently that we have decided to emphasise the distinction that exists between “regular food” and the alcoholic beverage. Where a glass with dinner may have been the norm in certain parts of the world, particularly wine-producing countries, an increased interest among many consumers in the drink itself and its role as a status symbol has evolved the way in which wine is treated and where it is drunk. That said, it is its relaxing and inhibition-loosening qualities that remain fundamental to the experience and that make it the drink of choice for so many.
To properly discuss how wine service should meet the demands of modern drinkers, therefore, I believe we should start with the above in mind, which remains quite fundamental to what wine is, while filling in the all-important context in which wine is to be served.
Wine Service Must Adapt to the Situation
While ostensibly the same—recommending a glass or bottle of wine to a group of paying customers—the nature of wine service and what determines its quality in the eyes of the consumer will depend on the context of the interaction. In a scenario where a group of friends go to a wine bar, chances are they are there to first and foremost enjoy each other’s company. In this case, and I believe for the vast majority of consumers, what actually is in the glass is a mere secondary, if not even tertiary, concern, provided the quality of it is not so catastrophically poor as to be a distraction, and that it won't leave too significant a dent in the monthly budget. It is a concept that the hard, inner core of wine nerds might find hard to accept, but the truth of the matter is that wine is there first and foremost in a supporting role. It is not that these consumers are not conscious of quality, but in most cases the consideration it's given is of a rather binary nature. Is the wine good (or rather, do I like it)? Yes or no. If yes, all is well with the world, and the night can move on.
The job of the waiter or sommelier is to read the room, match the energy, and make sure that people have as good an experience as they can have, without the wine service itself getting in the way of the primary reason why people are at the bar or restaurant. That, I believe, is the crux of Maria’s article and I couldn’t agree more.
There are, of course, other scenarios in which the consumer might be deeply interested in the wine, and the sommelier should at that point be able to engage accordingly, meeting the consumer where they are.
Given how contextual wine service can be, I don’t think there’s necessarily a catch-all approach that can accommodate all situations, but there are some commonalities that I, as a consumer, would expect from whoever is pouring and which greatly influence my perception of the service rendered. Below are some bullet points to help sum that up.
The sommelier should be able to quickly establish intent. Sometimes the customer is there to enjoy wine for its own sake, sometimes as part of a meal, and sometimes they’re there to have a conversation or possibly even conduct business. The level of engagement should vary accordingly, making sure that the intended outcome of the customer’s visit is held above the wine itself in importance.
The sommelier should assume some baseline knowledge. If the customer looks confused, they should be able to adjust the language used accordingly. I always feel that this is better than assuming everyone knows nothing about wine, which, if anything, offers no reassurance that the server knows what they’re talking about. Don’t barge in there with all the technical terms at your disposal, but don’t dumb it down too much either, as that can quickly come across as patronising.
Sometimes the customer knows what they want. Let them buy it. You want ice in that Pinot? Coming right up. Is it a travesty? Yes. Is it the customer’s prerogative to decide what they wish to pay for? Yes, so leave them alone. Suggestions are great, but only if the customer has indicated that they would like to engage in that way, which circles back neatly to the first bullet point.
Are These Strictly Requirements of the Modern Consumer?
I think not. While I believe the development and partial democratisation of establishments that offer qualified wine service has placed more people than before in scenarios where they may encounter these issues, the fundamentals of service, I believe, are not strictly modern as such. When Monsieur Boulanger opened the first “modern” restaurant in 1765, there will have been expectations of service too, despite the concept being brand new. Likely more akin to what you would find in higher-end restaurants, those early diners would also have found rude interruptions or needless recommendations jarring. That said, speaking of rude, this first “Boulangerie” was in Paris… (apologies to any French readers).
Of course, too much has changed since then for this example to be strictly relevant, but my point is that there is a timeless quality to good service which, while it develops with the expectations of the day, should always emphasise the customer’s needs above what is being served. If those needs can be met with a lecture in terroir and winemaking protocols, then that is of course great. However, those needs might just as well be met by the complete absence of any service.
Personal Pet Peeves
A short list of things I personally don’t care for in wine service. This is more of a rant, so skip right to the end if you don’t want to hear it. These are in order of rarity, and the lower part of the list does, thankfully, not happen very often.
Unless in a formal dining setting, where wine glasses are magically kept at an appropriate fill level by a skilled sommelier, please do not pour my wine for me. I am likely sharing it with someone as interested in the wine as I am, but who might for some reason also drink faster or slower. Let us set the pace. I also like relatively small glasses at a time, so as to swirl and enjoy it as I please. Most servers at regular restaurants pour very heavy pours in comparison, and it often places the slightly awkward onus on me to ask them to please just stop serving us. Again, read the room.
I know wine service is often someone’s first job, and that they may not be consumers of wine themselves. That’s perfectly fine. That said, management should give new staff some practice in how to open a bottle of wine before sending them out on the floor, to avoid lengthy fumbling, broken corks, and even spilled wine. It does not reflect well on the establishment, and will likely stand out in my memory of the night.
If, as an example, I’m asking you what the maceration time is for a given orange wine on the list, chances are I know what orange wine is. Please do not proceed with an explanation of how it’s white wine with skin contact… This again goes towards reading the room and meeting people where they are. It’s OK to say, “I don’t know, let me find out for you.”
If I’ve told you what I want, take the order and leave. Don’t try to upsell me or recommend something else, even if I might be missing a better option on the menu. You don’t know the rationale behind my choice.
And breathe. I’m curious if the above resonates with you guys, or if I’m being irrational.
Final Thoughts
Everyone is different, and that, along with the wondrous complexity of wine and the stories behind it all, is what makes wine service such a unique thing. It is also what makes it very difficult to do right. The key takeaway is that the modern consumer demands that they and their pleasure are the main focus of the server’s attention. This requires a lot of unseen finesse, which Maria highlights fantastically. It also requires that curiosity that Stacey talks about in her article, as without it you are most likely going to miss what your customer is actually after that evening.
Stay tuned for Dave’s thoughts on this topic. I know I’m looking forward to it!
George, I interviewed the lead sommelier at Spago in Las Vegas for an unrelated piece a few months ago. She told me that at the end of the day if her guests leave happy, then she's happy. Your bullet points about guest service are thoughtful. Your list of pet peeves should be shared widely. I must say though...your stock photo caption/instructions was a highlight. Cheers!
"Unless in a formal dining setting, where wine glasses are magically kept at an appropriate fill level by a skilled sommelier, please do not pour my wine for me."
Interesting! This is the first I'm ever hearing of this complaint. I have no idea how prevalent it is, but I know here in America it's essentially DEMANDED (by managers/employers) that servers pour all wine. It's not an option. You will have to tell them not to if you want that to happen, guaranteed. Certainly on the first pour (after that, you'll likely be left alone with the bottle and can do what you like.)